How to Make a Giant Fabric Wall Bow for Party Decor

The Ultimate Guide to Creating Giant Fabric Bows for Party Decor!

With the coquette trend on the rise, you've likely seen the gorgeous oversized bows on social media from brands like Love Shack Fancy and Pottery Barn. 🎀 This trend is only growing in popularity, and it's become the new hot thing to add a giant bow as decor for birthday parties, bridal showers, baby showers, and more.

If you've ever gone to purchase one of these bows and experienced some insane sticker shock (they retail for over $300🙀), I'm here to help!

After testing a multitude of different materials, I've finally cracked the code for making full, voluminous 3D bows that aren't droopy or sad. In this tutorial, I'll share the secret material that gives these bows the structure they need to make a huge statement! You'd never guess what it is, but you can find it at the hardware shop! You might even have it hanging in your garage!

Are you ready to get started making the bows of your dreams?

Choosing the Right Fabric

This bow can be made using a wide variety of fabrics. The most important thing to look for when selecting a fabric is one that is fully opaque. If it's even a little bit see-through, you'll be able to see the underlying structure of the bow, and it won't look good.

I've made this bow a bunch of different times and I've used different materials each time.

For my giant pink corduroy bow, I used fleece fabric. For the giant light pink bow, I used satin. For the small light purple bow, I used Super Shine Metallic fabric, which is polyester. The purple bow in this tutorial used satin fabric.

Before buying any fabric at JOANN, read this post to save the most money possible!

The two most important things to keep in mind when selecting a fabric are the width it's available in and the opacity of the fabric.

The fabric needs to be wide enough to completely wrap around the entire piece of Reflectix (the silver base for the bow) with a few inches of overlap on either side. Reflectix is sold in three sizes. The most reasonable sizes to use are 16" or 24".

Take your Reflectix width and times it by two to cover the front and back. Then, add about 4-6 inches to account for the raw edge and the overlap to make a clean finish.

Fabric Width

In this tutorial, I'm using the 16" width with a fabric that measures 45" wide. This was a great fit for this width of fabric and left me with a few inches of extra fabric.

If you fall in love with a fabric that isn't wide enough to fully cover your fabric, you can piece it together to make it work, but you'll need to purchase double the length of fabric that's recommended to do this. You'll want to fully cover the front side of the bow as well as the edges and a few inches on either side of the back. Then, cover the remaining back section with the second piece of fabric.

Purchasing By The Bolt

Something to keep in mind when purchasing fabric is that most fabrics are sold in 8-yard bolts when shopping at JOANN. This equates to about 24 feet, which is one foot shorter than a roll of Reflectix. A full bolt of fabric is a great length for this project. You'll need roughly 20 feet or 7 yards of fabric to make the purple bow featured in this tutorial.

Opaque Fabric

As far as opacity goes, you want a fabric that can't be seen through. However, if you find a fabric that you fall in love with, you can layer quilt batting behind it. I found the perfect shade of light pink for my giant light pink bow (this one used the 24" Reflectix width), and I layered a light-colored quilt batting below it to make it work.

Fleece

Fleece is a thick, relatively inexpensive fabric that comes in wide widths. The Luxe fleece from JOANN is one of my favorites to work with because it has a nice sheen to it! Click here to shop Fleece fabric.

Satin

This satin solid fabric is great for this project. It's a budget friendly fabric that I used on my light pink (Light Pink) and purple (Satin Lavender) bows. Just keep in mind that some of the lighter-colored fabrics may be a bit see-through! Click here to shop Satin fabric.

Metallic Fabric

This fabric is absolutely stunning in person!! I made a bow out of the light lavender for Easter, and it shimmers so gorgeously when the light hits it. It's a bit pricier but worth every penny. I also grabbed silver to make another bow here soon!

Click here to shop Metallic Fabric

Reflectix or Flex Foam

The secret material to make this bow is—drumroll, please—Reflectix. You might have come across this handy material in your local hardware store. After trying out several materials, I settled on this one because it's easy to access, affordable, and holds its shape well.

Reflectix Sizing

Reflectix insulation rolls come in three different width options: 16”, 24”, and 48”. For the purple bow featured in this tutorial, I used the 16” width. The light and dark pink bows used the 24” width. If you opt to purchase the wider width, you’ll need to double-check that your fabric width is at least 50” wide to accommodate the extra width.

Flex Foam

I also tried out Flex Foam in place of using Reflectix, which I found at my local JOANN Fabrics. If you decide to use Flex Foam, select the variation without any fusible adhesive interfacing. It's called Naked Flex Foam. The bow looks best when the fabric is not completely adhered to the base, as it allows it to drape more organically. Selecting the option without any fusible will also save you a ton of money ($75, to be exact) on this material!

Shop Flex Foam HERE!

Flex Foam Sizing

1 20” x 10 Yd bolt (30 feet) runs for about $30. While writing this post, I found it on sale at JOANN for only $15. If you plan on going this route, wait for a good sale or use a coupon to save on this purchase!

This material is a great option, and I used it on my mini-sized purple bow. The only downside to this material is that it wasn’t available in my local JOANN, and I had to order it online and wait for shipping. As a hugely impatient crafter, I opted to use the material I could source locally so I could get started right away. Flex foam is available in widths of 20" or 60" and can be purchased by the yard or as a precut 10-yard (30') bolt.

If you're using a sheer or more delicate fabric, Flex foam might be a better option for you to use on your bow because it has such a smooth finish!

How to Hang Your Bow

When it comes to hanging your bow, using a few heavy-duty command hooks works perfectly! the bow is supported by a wire in the center and two hanging hooks on either side of the bow.

I used these Command hooks to hang my bows.

Variations

If you'd like to make a variation of this bow, feel free to get creative! This post is meant to be a guide to help you make the bow of your dreams! I made this double-layered dark pink bow by cutting the bow piece twice and layering them on top of each other. I also added the corduroy lines by adhering the backer rod along the length of my Reflectix. This was a pretty labor-intensive process that took more hours than I'd like to admit. To top it off, I added in some giant-sized pearls.

I've also seen my bow made with much longer tails! You can do this by simply increasing the length of the Reflectix you cut for the tails. Keep in mind that you may need to cut them in two separate pieces and then join them once they are wrapped in fabric if you opt for really long tails.

Supplies

• 1 16" x 24' Roll of Reflectix Insulation or 1 24" x 24' Roll
  • (the purple bow uses the 16" wide option, the light and dark pink bows use the 24" width)
• 1 Bolt Naked Flex-Foam
• 1 Roll of 14-Gauge Steel Picture Hanging Wire
• 7 Yds Fabric - Refer to cutting chart below!
• 1 Roll Silver Gorilla Tape
• Zip Ties
• Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
• Scissors
• Wire Cutters

Make sure that you've thoroughly read the entire blog post BEFORE you order supplies!!

Step One: Cut Reflectix Insulation, Wire, & Fabric

The Reflectix roll I'm working on in this tutorial measures 16” x 25'. However, you can use other widths of this material to achieve a larger or smaller bow, depending on your desired outcome. Use the cutting charts below to cut all ten pieces needed for your bow.

Cutting Chart - Purple Bow - 16" Wide

FABRIC

• Cut 1: 110” x WOF (Bow)
• Cut 1: 126" x WOF (Tail)
• Cut 1: 26" x 26" (Center)

REFLECTIX INSULATION (16" Wide)

• Cut 1: 106” x 16” (Bow)
• Cut 1: 122” x 16” (Tail)
• Cut 1: 24” x 12” (Center)

WIRE

• Cut 2: 110"
• Cut 1: 126"
• Cut 1: 110"

Cutting Chart - Light Pink Bow - 24" Wide

FABRIC

• Cut 1: 124” x WOF (Bow)
• Cut 1: 148” x WOF (Tail)
• Cut 1: 36” x WOF (Center)

REFLECTIX INSULATION (24" Wide)

• Cut 1: 120” x 24” (Bow)
• Cut 1: 144” x 24” (Tail)
• Cut 1: 36” x 24” (Center)

WIRE

• Cut 2: 124”
• Cut 1: 148”
• Cut 1: 132"
  

Pro Tip: If you can’t cut the fabric to the specified length (maybe you can't find fabric in the right length), you can cut the bow and tail pieces in half. Then, piece them together. The center of the bow will hide the center seam where you join them together.

Trim Tails Diagonally

Starting from the end of the tail, measure 16 inches inward along one side of the tail. Make a mark on one side of the Reflectix. Use a ruler to draw a straight line from the marking you made to the opposite corner at the end of the Reflectix. Cut along the line you drew to create a diagonal ribbon end. Repeat this on the opposite side of the Reflectix.

Step Two: Add Wire to Tails and Bow

Let's begin constructing our bow by adding the wire supports along the length of the bows and tails.

To do this cut a long length of duct tape and place half of the width underneath the long edge of the Reflectix. Repeat this process along the entire length.

Bend the ends of the wire inward 2" on both ends. This will prevent the wire from poking through the fabric later on.

Align the end of the wire with the end of the tape, laying it right next to the Reflectix. Press down on the wire to secure it to the tape. Repeat this process along the entire length of the Reflectix.

Fold the tape upward onto the other side of the Reflectix to enclose the wire. This creates a secure channel for the wire to sit inside of so it doesn't move. Adding wire along the sides of the bow allows the bow to be shaped so it doesn't look flat. Repeat this process along the remaining sides.

Step Three: Cover Reflectix with Fabric

Next, grab your fabric and lay it out on a flat surface in front of you. The right side of the fabric should be facing downward against the table. If you're not sure which side is right or wrong, hold the fabric up and inspect both sides for the one that looks prettier. The shinier, prettier side is the right side.

Place the matching Relfectix on top of the fabric. Bring the raw edge of the fabric to the edge of the Reflectix and secure it in place with hot glue along the entire length of the fabric.

On the opposite unglued side of the fabric, draw a line of glue along the edge of the fabric (on the wrong side of the fabric). Fold the fabric over the hot glue and press down firmly. This will create a clean finish along the length of the fabric so the raw edge of the fabric isn't showing and it can't unravel.

Now you can bring the folded edge to the back of the bow to cover the raw edge, pull the fabric so it's taught, and secure it along the folded edge with hot glue. Repeat this process along the entire length of the bow.

Cover the Angled Tails

To cover the tails with fabric, lay out the fabric on the flat surface in front of you and wrap the Reflectix like you did in the previous step but don't secure it with glue just yet. Trim away the excess fabric along the diagonal ends of the bow. The fabric should extend 2" beyond the Reflectix.

Secure one long edge of the fabric to the Reflectix following the same steps as above, then fold the angled edge of the fabric inward toward the Reflectix and secure it in place with hot glue. Fold the other long side of the fabric inward, turn the diagonal cut under and secure it in place.

Create the Center

Let's move on to creating the center of the bow. Trim down the corners of your rectangle to create a smooth curve on both sides of the centerpiece. Place the fabric underneath it, with the right side facing downward.

Cover the Reflectix and hot glue the fabric in place.

Step Four: Join Bow & Tails

Bring the ends of the bow inward to the center of the bow and overlap them by a few inches. Secure the ends together with hot glue.

Fold the bow in half (hotdog style), then fold back the outermost edges to create a pleated look. Cut a short length of wire and secure the bow together.

Create a pleat in the tail as well and secure it with wire or a zip tie.

Lay the bow in front of you with the right side facing downward.

Make sure the folded edge along the wrong side of the bow is at the top of the bow. It will be less noticeable here.

Bring the tails below it, align the center points, and use a length of wire to secure the two pieces together. Trim away any excess wire and fold the edge of the wire inward to avoid any sharp edges.

Ensure that the glued edge of the tails are facing upward so you can see them. This will be the back of the bow.

Add the Bow Center

Place the center of the bow underneath the bow. The right side (pretty side) of the center should be facing downward and so should the bow.

Wrap one short end of the center to the back of the bow. Secure it in place with hot glue. Bring the other end of the center to the back of the bow and secure it in place so it covers the edge of the other end of the center.

Cut a piece of wire and thread it through the opening. Secure the ends of the wire together. Then rotate the wire so the twisted ends are hidden inside of the bow center. This will create your hanging loop for the bow.

If needed add some hot glue on either side of the wire to secure it in place to the back center of the bow so it's not visible from the front of the bow.

Step Five: Create Hanging Supports

If you'd like to add additional support to the bow, you can create small hanging loops using your leftover fabric. To do this, cut a piece of fabric that measures roughly 8" by 4". I like to rip an 8" strip of fabric. Ripping the fabric along the grain prevents it from unraveling.

Fold the short ends inward 1" towards the wrong side and secure the raw edges with hot glue. Fold the long edges together and secure them with hot glue.

Place the rectangular tab along the backside of the bow about 4 inches from the top, a few inches away from the curved edge. The right side of the rectangle (pretty side without glue) should be facing upward. Secure it in place along the short ends with hot glue. Press down firmly to adhere the hot glue to the fabric.

Now it's time to hang up your bow! I like to use three command hooks to secure my bow to the wall.

Once it's secured, I like to steam the fabric to release all of the creases and ensure everything looks nice and pretty.

Now you have a gorgeous giant bow! I can't wait to see what you make with this tutorial. Be sure to tag me on Instagram @sweetredpoppy or message me with a photo of what you've made so I can share it!

Do you want to be featured in this tutorial? Send me a photo (on Instagram) of the bow you've made with my tutorial, and I'll add your photo to this post!

Do you have any questions about this tutorial? Drop them in the comments below so I can answer them!