Looking to take your Halloween decor to the next level? This year, I wanted something bold and eye-catching for our front yard, so I created this 7-foot-tall haunted house cut-out—and I’m obsessed with how it turned out!
It’s got spooky vibes, glowing steps, and a fog effect that really amps up the eerie factor. I’m walking you through the whole process step by step so you can make your own version that’s sure to wow all the trick-or-treaters (and maybe scare off a few!).
This project might look a little intimidating, but trust me, it’s totally doable! With just a few materials and some basic tools, you’ll be able to create your own larger-than-life haunted house cutout. I’ll share the exact materials I used, tips for cutting out the design, and how to get that eerie glowing effect. Plus, I’ve got a few tricks up my sleeve to make it even spookier with minimal effort.
Whether you’re a Halloween fanatic or just want something extra special for your yard, this DIY is sure to be a hit!
Let’s get crafting and bring this haunted house to life!
Table of Contents
Wooden Haunted Halloween House Supplies
Click here to shop a list of these supplies from Lowe's!
- 4"x 8" Plywood
- I used 23/32-in x 4-ft x 8-ft Douglas Fir Sanded Plywood. This wood is nice and heavy for a solid houseand comes with one side that's presanded which makes this project much smoother! You could opt for a thinner piece or a less expensive one.
- Jigsaw
- I used a DEWALT XR 20-volt Max Brushless Variable Keyless Cordless Jigsaw
- Jigsaw Blades (Don't use regular blades!! Only use these double-sided ones!)
- Drill
- 1" Hex Shank Spade Drill Bit
- 2-3 Sawhorses or Table
- 2-4 Clamps
- Plastic Wood
- Putty Knife
- Orbital Sander or Sanding Paper
- Shelf Brace
- 1 Quart of Primer
- 1 Quart of Black Paint
- Paintbrush
- 1 Cedar Board 1" x 2"
- 2 packs of 2 ct. Narrow Hinges
- Paper
- Printer
- Tape
Optional
- LED Lights
- Rotary Cutter
- Cutting Mat
- Gyro Cut Tool
- Fog Machine
- Hanging Wire
- Staple Gun
Click here for the free template!
Step One: Print, Assemble and Cut out The Haunted House Template
First, download the pattern and open it in your PDF reader. I use Adobe Acrobat as my PDF reader.
*It's important not to print the pattern directly from your internet browser. Doing this can result in the pattern printing with incorrect scaling or incorrect border lines.
Next, click on the "Print" icon. This will open a print settings dialog box. In the box, update the scaling to "Actual Size" or "Custom: 100%".
The first page of this pattern contains a 1” x 1” square that needs to be measured using a measuring tape or ruler. Go ahead and print the first page of the pattern and measure the test square to make sure it measures 1” x 1”. If it does, print out the rest of the pattern.
If the test square doesn’t measure 1” x 1” check your print settings and reprint.
Once you’ve printed out the pattern, it’s time to assemble.
Feel free to cut off the margins of the pattern before arranging.
Arrange the pages according to the layout charts below. The pages are numbered 1-43 and have pink stars and scissors between the pages to help you align the pages accurately.
Line up the edges of the pages and tape them together, ensuring the pattern lines match up correctly.
If you like, you can trim off the margins of each page before taping them together. Or, if you prefer, overlap the margins of the papers.
Once the pattern is assembled, cut along the outermost black line around the haunted house. Then, cut away the negative pieces from the template.
I like to use a rotary cutter and cutting mat to speed up this process, but a pair of scissors works well, too! For the smallest circles, I use a Gyro Cut, which is a 45-degree blade with a 360-degree rotating head. It's great for intricate circles.
Step Two: Prepare Your Work Surface
Begin by setting up your 4" x 8" piece of plywood on a sturdy surface. You can use a table for this or a set of sawhorses to support the wood. If you have clamps, clamp your wood to your cutting surface. This will prevent it from moving around while you're cutting.
Step Three: Transfer Haunted House Template to Plywood
Lay out the haunted house template on top of your plywood, ensure that your wood is facing with the right side upward. This should be the smoother of the two sides.
Using painter's tape to secure it so it doesn't shift. Then, use a carpenter's pencil to outline the template.
Remember that this template is just a guide! Feel free to make any changes to your haunted house to best suit your needs. I taped my template a few feet from the bottom of the board to add in some extra height. I also increased the size of my steps to make them taller when I traced my template.
Don't forget to trace your bats if you'd like to include those as well.
If you'd like to add a triangular hinged leg support to the back of the house, trace a 15" x 15" square. Then, draw a straight line from the top left corner to the bottom right corner to create two right-angle triangles.
Step Four: Cut Haunted House Outline
Using a Jigsaw, cut along the outline of the haunted house. Once you've cut out the outline, resecure your plywood so it doesn't shift.
Tips and Tricks for Using a Jigsaw
Do NOT use the orbital setting if you want a smooth and accurate cut. Enabling the orbital setting will make the blade move in a circular movement, resulting in a less smooth cut. I like to keep my jigsaw set to zero to prevent any orbital movement for maximum control.
Gear Up for Safety: Wear safety goggles, ear protection, and snug-fitting clothes to avoid accidents. Keep your hair tied back and wear closed-toed shoes.
Secure Your Workpiece: Use clamps to tightly secure the plywood on a sturdy surface to prevent movement while cutting.
Blade Size Matters: Ensure the blade is appropriate for smooth cuts with high TPI (Teeth Per Inch). Use a double-sided blade if possible, and always disconnect power before changing the blade!
Mark Your Cut Lines: Before cutting, mark your cut lines clearly with a carpenter’s pencil to keep cuts straight.
Ease into It: Start slow with both hands on your jigsaw, increasing speed gradually as you approach your wood.
Hands Off: Keep your hands clear of the cutting zone, and never reach underneath the plywood while cutting.
Stay Focused: Stay alert throughout the cutting process to avoid mistakes.
Mind the Overhangs: Support overhanging material to avoid mishaps.
Wait for the Blade to Stop Completely: Once you’re finished cutting, wait for the blade to stop completely before pulling it away from the wood.
Slow Down: Go slowly around curves to avoid tool kickback and ensure smooth cuts.
Step Five: Cut Haunted House Window Details
Cutting into the middle of a piece of plywood can be tricky; it’s easier to drill a hole first and then insert the jigsaw blade into the hole to start cutting. I use a 1" Hex Shank Spade Drill Bit to create a circle along a curve of the haunted house window cutouts. Then, I insert my jigsaw blade and start cutting.
Step Six: Patch and Sand
Once the cutting is done, it’s time to patch and sand the haunted house for smooth results. I use DAP Plastic Wood-x All Purpose Wood Filler to fix splintering or imperfections. The filler starts pink and turns natural when dry, indicating it's ready to sand. Apply with a putty knife and sand after it dries.
Once dried, sand down the entire front surface of the haunted house cut-out. Sand any rough edges from your jigsaw as well. Wear a mask while sanding to avoid inhaling wood dust. Start with a lower grit (80 or 100), then use a higher grit (100 or 120) for a smoother finish.
For large projects like this, I prefer using an orbital sander. It speeds up sanding and collects dust, reducing cleanup time.
Once sanded, wipe down the haunted house with a damp microfiber cloth, sponge, or tack cloth to remove any dust before painting.
Step Seven: Paint Wooden Haunted House
Now it’s time to paint your wooden haunted house! Start by coating the entire piece with an outdoor water resistant primer, especially if you're using MDF or wood that could swell.
To ensure durability, use paint formulated for outdoor use. Apply a thin coat of paint with a brush or roller. After the first coat dries, you can apply another thin layer if needed.
If you notice any imperfections, you can sand between coats with a high-grit sandpaper (220) and remove dust before applying the next layer of paint.
Once the primer is dry, use your outdoor paint, applying two coats for best results. A foam brush can help with tight crevices. Finally, seal the haunted house with a clear topcoat or sealer for long-term durability.
Step Eight: Personalize Your Haunted House
Now comes the fun part: you can personalize the haunted house however you like to fit your spooky theme! Add some LED lights along the backside of the house, staple on some floating bats onto hanging wire, cover the windows with spider webs—it's really up to you!
Step Nine: Attach Hardware to Haunted House
The final step is securing your giant haunted house so it stands upright. There are several ways to do this so feel free to get creative with whichever option works best for you! If you plan on reusing this prop, a collapsible option might work best.
I started by adding two pieces of wood on either side of the house to secure my hinged legs to.
Be sure to drill pilot holes before drilling the screws in to avoid splitting the wood.
Secure your hinge brackets to the longest side of the wooden triangle. Then attach the other side of the bracket to your strip of wood.
Once your pilot hole is drilled, you can attach the brackets, this is easiest with an impact driver. Your haunted house is now ready to be displayed!
Step Ten: Add Lights and Fog
Now it's time to set up your display and plug in your lights. Once your leg supports are open add a sandbag to each one to prevent the house from tipping forward. To maximize the spookiness of this haunted house, consider adding a fog machine at its base.
Now you have a finished giant haunted Halloween house! Do you have questions about this process? Be sure to leave them in the comments below so I can answer them!
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